A new biographical work offers fresh insights into the transformative career of Virgil Abloh, the multi-hyphenate creative who ascended from the world of streetwear to become the artistic director of one of fashion’s most storied luxury houses, Louis Vuitton. Titled “Make It Ours: Crashing the Gates of Culture with Virgil Abloh,” the book is penned by Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist Robin Givhan, providing a detailed examination of Abloh’s unique trajectory and lasting influence on a global industry.
Abloh, who tragically passed away in 2021 at the age of 41 due to cardiac angiosarcoma, is widely credited with dismantling traditional fashion hierarchies and forging a new path that elevated streetwear aesthetics to the pinnacle of high fashion. His journey was unconventional, notably marked by a lack of formal training in fashion design, a background that nonetheless became a cornerstone of his disruptive approach.
The Ascendancy from Street to Global Stage
Virgil Abloh’s initial rise to prominence was closely tied to his creative partnership with Grammy-winning producer and singer Kanye West. This collaboration provided Abloh with a platform to develop his distinct design sensibility and cultural commentary, laying the groundwork for his future ventures.
He went on to found his own high-end labels, beginning with Pyrex Vision and subsequently establishing Off-White, a brand that quickly garnered international acclaim for its distinctive blend of graphic design, ironic commentary, and high-fashion sensibilities. Off-White became a crucial vehicle for Abloh to articulate his vision and build a dedicated global following before his eventual move into the traditional luxury sphere.
A Defining Collaboration and the Louis Vuitton Call
A pivotal moment that underscored Abloh’s burgeoning influence was his highly successful collaboration with sportswear giant Nike. This partnership involved the ambitious redesign of 10 iconic Nike sneaker styles, a project that generated immense buzz and cemented Abloh’s status as a significant cultural force capable of bridging disparate worlds. It was this widely publicized and commercially successful venture, in particular, that reportedly drew the attention of Louis Vuitton, recognizing Abloh’s unparalleled ability to connect with contemporary culture and audiences.
His appointment as Artistic Director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear collection in 2018 was a landmark moment, signaling a significant shift within the luxury industry. It represented an acknowledgment of streetwear’s cultural power and a willingness by heritage brands to embrace new perspectives and leadership outside traditional pipelines.
Redefining Luxury Through Culture and Meaning
According to Robin Givhan’s analysis in “Make It Ours,” Abloh’s success stemmed from a strategic approach that inverted conventional fashion wisdom. Rather than focusing solely on product design first, Abloh uniquely prioritized building a brand and a narrative that resonated deeply with consumers.
Givhan highlights how Abloh successfully injected meaning into his creations, imbuing them with cultural relevance and a sense of belonging that spoke directly to a new generation of luxury consumers. This methodology, Givhan argues, made consumers feel that their own perspectives on value, aesthetics, and beauty were not only recognized but also validated at the highest levels of the fashion establishment. This approach fundamentally contributed to the redefinition of what luxury fashion could be – less about exclusivity rooted in heritage and more about inclusivity, cultural relevance, and shared values.
Legacy and Succession
Virgil Abloh’s impact extends far beyond the specific collections he designed. He opened doors for designers from non-traditional backgrounds and championed a more inclusive and diverse vision for the fashion industry. His influence is palpable in the continued blurring of lines between streetwear and luxury, and the increased emphasis on cultural narrative and brand building across the sector.
His untimely death left a void, but his legacy continues to inspire. In 2023, Grammy-winning producer and singer Pharrell Williams was named as Abloh’s successor at Louis Vuitton menswear, a choice that many saw as a continuation of Abloh’s commitment to bringing figures from outside traditional fashion into the luxury fold.
Through his innovative design, cultural commentary, and unique brand-building philosophy, Virgil Abloh did more than just design clothes; he reshaped an industry, leaving behind a blueprint for a more culturally engaged and accessible future for luxury fashion.
