Los Angeles bids farewell to a culinary landmark as Cole’s French Dip, a venerable restaurant and bar nestled in the heart of downtown, is scheduled to permanently close its doors on August 3rd. The establishment, which first opened its doors in 1908, holds a unique place in the city’s history, widely recognized as Los Angeles’s oldest operating restaurant and bar. For 117 years, it has served generations of Angelenos and visitors, becoming synonymous with its signature sandwich and a bygone era of the city.
A Storied History and a Culinary Claim
Founded over a century ago, Cole’s stands as a rare surviving link to early 20th-century Los Angeles. Its enduring legacy is deeply tied to a significant culinary claim: the invention of the now-iconic French dip sandwich. While the origins of this beloved dish are subject to historical debate, with Philippe the Original often cited as a competitor for the title, Cole’s has long asserted its pioneering role. The sandwich, typically consisting of thinly sliced roast beef served on a French roll and accompanied by beef jus for dipping, became a staple that drew patrons for decades, contributing significantly to the restaurant’s enduring popularity.
Beyond its culinary contributions, Cole’s has been a consistent presence in a rapidly evolving downtown landscape. Its walls likely hold countless stories from the city’s past, serving as a gathering place through prohibition, economic shifts, and urban redevelopment.
The Reasons Behind the Closure
The decision to cease operations on August 3rd comes at a challenging time for the independent restaurant industry. Cedd Moses, the owner, cited a “litany of reasons” contributing to the closure. He explained that these issues are not unique to Cole’s but are broadly impacting most independent restaurants in Los Angeles, many of which are struggling under the weight of various issues.
While Moses did not detail the specific nature of these struggles, the restaurant industry has faced significant headwinds in recent years, including rising operational costs, labor shortages, changes in consumer habits, and the lingering effects of the global pandemic. For historic establishments housed in older buildings, maintaining infrastructure and meeting contemporary standards can add further financial pressure.
Cole’s closure follows that of The Varnish, the acclaimed speakeasy-style bar that was previously hidden in the back of Cole’s. The Varnish, known for its craft cocktails and intimate atmosphere, shut down last year, signaling potential underlying challenges for the overall operation even before the announcement regarding the main restaurant.
A Loss to Downtown’s Character
The impending closure represents more than just the loss of a restaurant; it signifies the departure of a significant historical and cultural touchstone for downtown Los Angeles. Cole’s has been a anchor in the community, offering a consistent, familiar experience in an area undergoing constant transformation.
Its absence will be felt by long-time patrons, downtown workers, and tourists seeking a taste of classic LA. The red booths, the classic counter, and the aroma of roast beef have been integral parts of the downtown experience for generations. The specific date of August 3rd marks the definitive end point for an institution that has navigated over a century of change.
Management for Cole’s expressed their gratitude, stating that they have cherished serving the Downtown community for over a century. They affirmed that they will continue crafting their signature French dip sandwiches and drinks, maintaining service as usual, until the announced closure date.
As the final days approach, patrons are expected to visit Cole’s one last time, paying tribute to a restaurant that has witnessed and participated in the unfolding history of Los Angeles for 117 years. The closure on August 3rd will undoubtedly leave a void in the city’s culinary and historical landscape, highlighting the ongoing challenges faced by even the most enduring independent businesses.
